(Although I know both have done more kms than above - both original)
I understand 2 to 3 chains per cassettee. 3,000kms per cassette?
Cables in good nick, bottom bracket failed early on, replaced with Shimano now a Centaur bottom bracket is back on.
Metrics
New Centaur Cassette & Sram Chain @ 5983 kms. 214 hrs. Approx ave. 28 kmph.
(Although I know both have done more kms than above - both original)
I understand 2 to 3 chains per cassettee. 3,000kms per cassette?
Cables in good nick, bottom bracket failed early on, replaced with Shimano now a Centaur bottom bracket is back on.
(Although I know both have done more kms than above - both original)
I understand 2 to 3 chains per cassettee. 3,000kms per cassette?
Cables in good nick, bottom bracket failed early on, replaced with Shimano now a Centaur bottom bracket is back on.
You mean 3000km per chain right? As long as you replace your chain when you should, the cassette should last quite a while.
I've switched to using YBN chains and they seem to last longer for me. I removed the last one after doing ~4000km and it wasn't even worn, I had managed to twist it twice (FD issues I think). I imagine it would have lasted another 1000km or perhaps more.
I've switched to using YBN chains and they seem to last longer for me. I removed the last one after doing ~4000km and it wasn't even worn, I had managed to twist it twice (FD issues I think). I imagine it would have lasted another 1000km or perhaps more.
Not sureYou mean 3000km per chain right? As long as you replace your chain when you should, the cassette should last quite a while.
- i may have the metric back to front. 3000 kms a cassette would mean 20 weeks of riding = a new cassette
I've heard the rule of thumb to be
2 chains to 1 cassette
2 cassettes to 1 chainring
So every second chain change, you should do the cassette, and every second cassette you should do the chainrings. However, that assumes that you do the chain after about 3,000km or so. As soon as it starts to show that it is "stretched" you should change it.
The alternative is to just run a chain and cassette combo into the ground (about 10,000km) and then change both. And then change the chainrings when they are showing signs of wear. Usually when a new chain doesn't mesh properly.
James
2 chains to 1 cassette
2 cassettes to 1 chainring
So every second chain change, you should do the cassette, and every second cassette you should do the chainrings. However, that assumes that you do the chain after about 3,000km or so. As soon as it starts to show that it is "stretched" you should change it.
The alternative is to just run a chain and cassette combo into the ground (about 10,000km) and then change both. And then change the chainrings when they are showing signs of wear. Usually when a new chain doesn't mesh properly.
James
My two Campag 10 speed chains lasted around 6000 and 9000km before retirement. I used Campag's spec for determining retirement. The 6000km was on the Ridley and I was a little more rigorous than the 9000km chain.
And it's correct that if the chain is replaced at or before spec, the cassette should last another one or two chains.
And it's correct that if the chain is replaced at or before spec, the cassette should last another one or two chains.
If you talk to Bob at Stanmore cycles, he reckons he can get 18,000 out of a chain. This is based on fastidious cleaning, and using some very awesome high tech Campagnolo lube that doesn't sem to exist for retail sale. (Believe me, I've looked.)
No specs on how much more distance he gets out of cassettes and chainrings...
No specs on how much more distance he gets out of cassettes and chainrings...
Are these figures right?
I do approx 250 km each week. At 3,000 km, that means a new chain every 12 weeks?
I've done 18,000 km on my last chain and cassette and it's still sweet for another two or three I reckon.
Cleaned once a week (hot water, detergent and toothbrush) and using wax lubricant.
I do approx 250 km each week. At 3,000 km, that means a new chain every 12 weeks?
I've done 18,000 km on my last chain and cassette and it's still sweet for another two or three I reckon.
Cleaned once a week (hot water, detergent and toothbrush) and using wax lubricant.
There's a forum thread on another forum discussing this subject and it does appear Campag chains are more durable than Shimano and SRAM's offerings. Not scientific but the general trends is pretty obvious, and by a big margin.If you talk to Bob at Stanmore cycles, he reckons he can get 18,000 out of a chain.
Karzie: How do you spec the condition of your chain?
More the condition of the sprocket, Weiyun.Karzie: How do you spec the condition of your chain?
As for the chain, I usually just check lateral flexibility and for frozen links.
My philosophy has been that I've left it too late when it starts to slip.
How do you check?
Yep. If your chain is skipping, then your chain is junk, and so is your cassette, and there's a better than 50% chance your chainrings are toast too. (Unless you have just installed a new cassette, in which case the cassette is good, but will be junk next week if you ride 250 km on it.)My philosophy has been that I've left it too late when it starts to slip.
How do you check?
It is not always apparent that your chain is stretching, since the wear on the chain and the wear on the cassette cogs are - by their very nature - closely matched.
I invested $15 in a chain checker tool which has saved me many times that amount in cassettes and chainrings. Wont' save your chain though.
A vernier using Campag's technique is easily done, or the traditional method using a steel inch ruler (12" from pin to pin)
Thanks Toff. 'Out of stock' of course!I invested $15 in a chain checker tool which has saved me many times that amount in cassettes and chainrings. Wont' save your chain though.
From what I have heard, wax is the worst possible lubricant you can use, it doesn't work when it is under load, which is when you want the lubrication to work.
I use progold prolink (or visa versa), it seems to be a balance between wet and dry lube.
James
I use progold prolink (or visa versa), it seems to be a balance between wet and dry lube.
James
I thought ProLink is a strictly dry lube. I've been using it and it doesn't seem to hang around too well in the wet.
Mail order is your friend... Until you need local assistance.
I got mine from Peter Bundy. That link was just for a picture and explanation.Thanks Toff. 'Out of stock' of course!
I use Prolink as my main lubricant. It's a dry lubricant that goes on wet. Agree with comments that it doesn't work so well in wet conditions. I remember doing a 150k ride where the first 50 kilometres were in pouring rain. The last 100 km were mostly dry and my chain squeaked and groaned the whole time. I actually had to stop at a tap and wet the chain to provide some basic lubricant to the system. The sound of grit grinding away my chainrings was so bad.
Yep, I use prolink too. It's great till it get's wet as it's a wax made to be in a water suspension. When new, i use a teflon based lube as 'foundation' and use the prolink every few days. It helps to keep the chain clean, which is the most important consideration of all. Once it starts getting a bit dry, I reapply the teflon. Once a week, usually after the main ride (Sundays these days) I clean it with a light detergent and toothbrush and reapply either the prolink or the teflon, depending. The teflon base will get you thru a long wet ride.
I try not to ride in the wet anyway, as I've had a few nasty accidents on bicycles and motorbikes and (belatedly) came to the conclusion that two wheels give you zero traction on wet bitumen (and pebblecrete!!), and the brakes don't work too good, neither!
My rule of thumb must be the same as bob's. 18 months (on the commuter/trainer) or 18,000km, then I change the chain and the cluster at the same time. I've been doing this for 35 years.
If you don't clean your chain regularly, then yes, it will die quickly and what's worse is that you can't really predict it.
I try not to ride in the wet anyway, as I've had a few nasty accidents on bicycles and motorbikes and (belatedly) came to the conclusion that two wheels give you zero traction on wet bitumen (and pebblecrete!!), and the brakes don't work too good, neither!
My rule of thumb must be the same as bob's. 18 months (on the commuter/trainer) or 18,000km, then I change the chain and the cluster at the same time. I've been doing this for 35 years.
If you don't clean your chain regularly, then yes, it will die quickly and what's worse is that you can't really predict it.
To my understanding, Prolink isn't a wax or anything conventional but a proprietary polymer metal surface treatment.
YUK. I'll check the bottle tonite. Might've got it wrong. I've only been using whatever it is for 12 months as it seems to keep the chain cleaner. Pretty sure I would have seen 'Polymer' if it was there.To my understanding, Prolink isn't a wax or anything conventional but a proprietary polymer metal surface treatment.
Previous to this, I just used (blush) machine oil... (avec the teflon stuff as stated).
Here's Prolink's site.
http://www.progoldmfr.com/
It's a metal surface friction modifier/treatment of some sort, hence it's ability to keep the chain clean (relatively).
http://www.progoldmfr.com/
It's a metal surface friction modifier/treatment of some sort, hence it's ability to keep the chain clean (relatively).
Interesting to go back and look at that Prolink website. Leonard Zinn says that the lube should be applied just before riding, so that the lubricant can use the heat of the chain in use to bond with the metal's surface.
I usually put it on at night, then rub it off just before I ride. Might try the Zinn way and see if it makes a difference...
I usually put it on at night, then rub it off just before I ride. Might try the Zinn way and see if it makes a difference...
I blow torch my chain after treatment...Leonard Zinn says that the lube should be applied just before riding, so that the lubricant can use the heat of the chain in use to bond with the metal's surface.
Sheldon Brown [external usenet poster] says:Leonard Zinn says that the lube should be applied just before riding, so that the lubricant can use the heat of the chain in use to bond with the metal's surface.
I hate that stuff!
It's got a nasty slimy aftertaste, and tends to give me diharrea.
Zinn had to replace chains every month? How much does he ride?
And then he could ride around Italy every day for a year before he had to replace. It's starting to sound just like our conversation.Zinn had to replace chains every month? How much does he ride?
As I stated before, I believe it's actually the regular cleaning of the worn metal particles that makes the difference, not necessarily the lube.
It sort of says that in the article. Sort of...
The exact chain checker tool was used on my chain by Mr Bundy and it indicated the chain was well out of the required parameters to be functional.
This has been a very good thread, thanks for the input, the upshot is that regular cleaning of a chain is required to maintain chain and cassette life - in the past all I've really done is clean the chain after riding in the rain, that will have to change.
If memory serves me correctly I did start a previous thread on the same topic... Anyway, even if I was a moderator I wouldn't need to close the thread 
This has been a very good thread, thanks for the input, the upshot is that regular cleaning of a chain is required to maintain chain and cassette life - in the past all I've really done is clean the chain after riding in the rain, that will have to change.
If memory serves me correctly I did start a previous thread on the same topic...
Anyway, even if I was a moderator I wouldn't need to close the thread I have gone the reverse. I used to clean the chain and cassette quite regularly but have for the last year or so not bothered. Even after a wet ride (rare), I would only just rinse the chain down with a bit of detergent. All other situation it's just a solid wipe down with a rag and fresh dry lubes. According to some net people, this can work. Will see how this works out in due course. I am not expecting to see any dramatic differences....the upshot is that regular cleaning of a chain is required to maintain chain and cassette life - in the past all I've really done is clean the chain after riding in the rain, that will have to change.
Hahahaha... thanks for the advice, but I'll still keep up my regular cleanI have gone the reverse. I used to clean the chain and cassette quite regularly but have for the last year or so not bothered. Even after a wet ride (rare), I would only just rinse the chain down with a bit of detergent. All other situation it's just a solid wipe down with a rag and fresh dry lubes. According to some net people, this can work. Will see how this works out in due course. I am not expecting to see any dramatic differences.
(who are these 'net people'?....)
'Net people' include you for one!Hahahaha... thanks for the advice, but I'll still keep up my regular clean
(who are these 'net people'?....)
The way I argued this out was that the potential difference b/n regular cleaning and regular wipe down and relube is at most 30% (if any) mileage difference. Given that a quality Campag chain is worth around $30-40, $130 if a Centaur (10 speed) cassette is included, I'll be saving around $10-$45 over a good part of a year. But to clean it properly on a regular basis, I'll be looking at around a 1-2 tins of degreaser, environment polluting run-offs and importantly an hour of my time every week or two. So the cost benefit starts to go to zero and even negative very quickly. Of course, the proviso is that there's no detriment to shifting efficiency or dramatic wear differential, which I have not unmasked yet. As for the shinny bling factor, well, that's a personal choice. With solid rag wipe downs and dry lube, the chain can stay decently presentable. YMMV.
Until proven otherwise, my only reason for doing a full drive train degrease service these days is when I need to replace one of the components or when vanity takes hold.
But think of the relationship you are building with the bike...
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